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October 4, 2024

The luxury brand marketing playbook

Even though Italian writer Cesare Pavese gave us this undeniably wise comment that ‘everything is a luxury, starting with being in this world’, rather basically we still need to define what luxury should mean.

Our playbook reads as follows: craftmanship, beauty, design, perfection, exceptionalism, exquisite aesthetics all backed by obsessive founding beliefs, and possibly a culture and values rooted in a very specific local past.

Ideally a luxury brand founder story about an innovator beating tough economic times or hard personal circumstances. Or a contemporary ‘David versus Goliath’ brand narrative featuring a young entrepreneur wanting to do better than the established big guns.

Founder stories are important. By celebrating them, a brand can show consistency and, as a result, trust.

Luxury means authenticity. Credibility and honesty help make a brand unique. The marketing world, framed by eco-consciousness and the lack of trust we have in so many other areas of our lives, demands transparency.

Building brand authenticity takes various forms: like using nature to signal quality, commitment, and resources from faraway places using rare raw materials; traditional craftsmanship to signal heritage; and sincere stories of innovations, originality and sustainability.

And history is important in luxury. Compared to others, luxury brands are unusual in this one metaphysical sense as their ‘birth’ is more crucial to marketing than most. ‘Founded in...', 'Established in...', and 'Since...' are core features of much messaging and logo design..

Luxury brands always get the language right. We like words as opulent and crafted as the products we are selling. Everything should taste delicious, be sumptuous, lusciously fragranced, handcrafted, timeless, exquisitely finished and made to last forever.

We like to get the aura and ambience right. We understand how the cues of art, history and culture ennoble brands and customers. To create the right aura, you must be as real and pure as possible. Think art galleries or five-star hotels.

Lastly and most obviously, know thy customer. UHNW’s and HNW’s are a famously hard-to-reach niche group. Market research is an essential part of any serious company’s marketing plan. It dictates brand strategy, informs resource allocation, and helps brands understand their consumers.

Though quantitative market research (usage and attitude studies) has always been with us, going beyond the numbers has always interested us – and is especially relevant for marketing luxury brands.

Anew luxury brand and research consultancy strives always for deeper insight into human behaviour, and the experiential part of being a luxury brand consumer– not just the process of buying, but the actual experience of owning and consuming a product/service. And understanding the context surrounding consumers when they make their choices.

We want to know the role of emotions, feelings, moods, and other affective aspects of consumption. It matters in luxury brand marketing.

Get the right luxury brand experts to help

Whether it is insights from market research, luxury brand strategy development, new brand names, luxury logo design, messaging, luxury copywriting, online and offline content or coffee table books we are London-based luxury experts.

We help companies - such as Peninsula Hotels, Bombardier, Universal Music, Boodles, and Hatch Mansfield - increase brand profitability through sharper insights, distinctive propositions, creative ideas and faultless execution.

We are particularly adept at working directly with luxury brands, business owners, start-ups and entrepreneurs who are committed to sustainability, outstanding quality and craft.

To get in touch do drop us an email. We'd be delighted to meet for a coffee, either face-to-face or virtually to discuss your brief

Make your brand marketing luxurious

(Feature image credit with thanks here)

The writer Peter York said

"Luxury is a business model. If you are a luxury brand, the thing that you make is the brand”.

He makes a good point. Because, in luxury, the distance between the functional value of a product and the symbolic value of a brand is the greatest in comparison to any other market category.

Brands’ painstakingly, beautifully, created presentations of desire, style, quality, craftsmanship, authenticity, zeitgeist and consumer understanding can contribute massive value. Brand marketing, in itself, gives the status and aspiration that luxury consumers look for.

Rarity, excellence, and high prices have to be justified to discerning UHNW and HNW audiences. If you are in wine, fashion, jewellery, cars, private aviation, hotels, hospitality, entertainment, superyachts, or travel your customers want exclusivity and quality.

Sometimes they want the cutting edge of innovation and style.

(Image credit with thanks here)

Sometimes they want reassuring comforts of nostalgia, reassurance, and old comforts. Sometimes they want luxurious escape. The psychological drivers of luxury are wide ranging indeed.

There are various luxury marketing strategies that brands - and their luxury brand consultants - use. And they must be executed in stylish, relevant, ways to increasingly sophisticated global audiences.

Here are some that have worked through the ages:

Creation stories

Luxury brands need creation stories. We have the original, the only, the newest, the oldest, the rawest, the rarest, the most hard to get, the most stylish, the purest, the tastiest…..

Many stories and narratives are based on craft. Practically, symbolically and psychologically the act of making something permanent, something beautiful, in an all-too-often ugly, impersonal world has always been valued.

Founder stories

Many brands have impressive beginnings. Themes usually feature humble artisan roots, triumph- over- tragedy stories, skilled brave entrepreneurism, ‘Questor’, or ‘David/Goliath’ archetypes. Good ones last for ever and help keep legacy brands alive as LVMH understand well. The recent Widow Clicquot film is a fine example.

(Image credit with thanks here)

Emotion

The spectrum here is wide of course but good market research can unearth a brand’s deeper triggers and help companies how to articulate the right desires and aspirations. Sharing a brand’s values and beliefs with like-minded people is powerful.

Exclusivity

Of course. A sense of community has always been strong and people -more than ever – want to belong. They want to share/show off/reassure themselves throughout the various life stages with brands that reflect their values and interests. UHNW brands can make customers feel special and important by offering, for example, limited edition products, bespoke services, or unusual retail locations, or invitation - only events.

Interestingly Pol Roger are currently running scarcity/quality campaign using the endline ‘Reassuringly hard to find’.

Make memories and experiences

It’s how luxury bricks n’ mortar retail is reinventing itself. The conventional shop is being reframed as theatre, as drama, using spaces that offer value beyond their products or services. e.g. immersive environments, tailor-made offers, or one-off experiential events. People can talk about them.

Extend

Brand collaborations introduce customers to shared brand values and image beyond their own and creates newsworthy content.

Brand image creation

It is hard to do imaginatively and consistently. It means taking a macro and micro approach, solid brand propositions, deep consumer understanding, thoughtful management, creativity that reflects the craftmanship, care and quality of the brand, and the sensitive positioning of all communication touchpoints, like advertising, product design, visual identity, customer service, social media, retail placing and experience.

High prices

Cost itself is a tactic. High prices can create a superior image, talk value, and prestige positioning. Some may remember Stella Artois’ ‘Reassuringly Expensive’ campaign which ran from the 1980’s to the 2000’s. Its objective was to turn the negative of higher prices into a positive. So, they told people that by being pricier, their brew was better than cheaper ones.

Think deeper

For all marketers, the job has got tougher. Media fragmentation, multiple stakeholders, pressure on budgets, instant accountability, job insecurity, consumer fickleness, economic austerity, supply chain instability ….to name but a few.

In fact, the very idea of luxury has been overused to such an extent as to sometimes be virtually meaningless.

Nevertheless, luxury brands have flourished successfully throughout history because, more than any other market sector, its owners and managers understand that meaning means monetisation. That luxury brand marketing is about selling emotions, stories, connections more than just the product. And a little luxury makes people happy.

It means thinking harder about mankind. After all, the world doesn’t truly need another watch, bottle of wine or piece of jewellery.

But people want luxury. We all need our dreams. We all long for better. Most of us look up to that bigger house on the hill, to the mountain top.

(Image credit with thanks here)

We buy luxury brands assuming they will express what we may not be able to say in words. Great luxury brands can reflect our best selves, lets us create a persona we want to be, and have a uniquely personal story we wish to tell or show.

As Fats Waller put it in 1930:

"It ‘ain't what you do, it's the way that you do it. That’s what gets results".

And results are what Anew, the luxury brand agency, delivers

Whether it is insights from market research, strategic brand thinking, new brand names, luxury logo design, messaging, online and offline content, coffee table books and luxury brand websites, we are London-based luxury experts.

We help companies increase brand profitability through sharper insights, distinctive propositions, creative ideas and faultless execution.

To get in touch do drop us an email. We'd be delighted to meet for a coffee, either face-to-face or virtually to discuss your brief.

Luxury is seclusion

The UHNW travel industry has made seclusion a luxury. In our latest article for Luxury Briefing Magazine we explore how privacy and escape from the coarse excesses of the world is becoming more desirable. Full text below.

Billie Holliday didn’t feel so good about being alone. She sat in her chair, filled with despair. ’There's no one could be so sad, with gloom everywhere, I sit and I stare, I know that I’ll soon go mad’.

Doubtless we’re all going mad with the way things are.

But in fact, being alone, wanting a little seclusion, some privacy and escape from the coarse excesses of the world is becoming more desirable - a luxury.

If scarcity is one of luxury’s core values, and true seclusion however temporary, is scarce; then a little seclusion is indeed luxury.

I feel a change coming on. People will increasingly want an escape from tech and the burdens it brings. I am no Luddite, but being info-bombed, AI aided, text stressed, platform pressured… I look around and the weight is heavy. People will pay for experiences that moves them away from all that. Oh, I know the switched off mobile is a futile dream, but there are places for those who desire deluxe decompression.

The UHNW travel industry is one luxury sector that has figured this out years ago, offering beautifully remote walled gardens, in villas, on islands, at resorts, up mountains, over the sea, down the valleys to the well-heeled. Ditto the owners of Edmiston or Burgess superyachts, or Bombardier or Gulfstream planes. Exquisite detachment, one step beyond the gaze of others. Not so much turn left on the plane, as turn wherever you want, as you own the whole thing.

I have just returned from the North Pole courtesy of our friends at Secret Atlas. They run amazing expedition micro cruises in isolated locations. And the Arctic is definitely a place to ponder these matters. It’s Nature at its most extreme.

Profound, wondrous, timeless. Being up there alone in the freezing white wildness reminded me that the world is mightier than we are. That we are frail, precious, that we are temporary, that we have to more graciously bow to things greater than ourselves.

That ‘everything is a luxury, starting with being in this world’ as Italian writer Cesare Pavese said. And it’s calming that the mobile doesn’t ring and the email ping.

Being far from the madding crowd can be seen as counterintuitive to luxury brand-building which thrives on the opposite - exposure and connection. Exposure these days is supposed to be Good. Whole professions are devoted to ‘getting the truth out’.

The media, the entertainment industry, writers, artists, lawyers, psychotherapists, doctors, historians… and rightly so. Sarah Igo’s fascinating ‘History of Privacy in Modern America’ speaks of the conflict between exposure and reticence as a story of positive gain for society, not a loss.

There are luxury brands that connect with solitude and exclusivity. As luxury shifts from pure materialism to unique experience, there is now no shortage of exclusive, secluded adventures including luxury tours to the North/South Pole, private safaris or glamping experiences in wildernesses.

Aman Resorts offer hotels and resorts located in remote island retreats and mountain hideaways. Four Seasons Private Retreats say it in their name. Bulgari does Italian luxury getaways-from-it-all. Rosewood offer Ultimate Escapes. One&Only do one-off resorts and private homes ‘handpicked for their extraordinary beauty and cultural charm.’ I’d be more than happy to test the claim.

Let’s not forget the digital detox retreats where guests surrender their mobiles to immerse themselves in nature and mindfulness. Like Camp Grounded in California whose off-the-grid weekends are popular. Or Ritz-Carlton Reserve’s Disconnect to Reconnect phone-free hotels offering quantum healing, yoga, mandala art and sound therapy. Yup, the seclusion business works in many ways.

The acclaimed psychiatrist Anthony Storr explored the value of spending time alone in his famous book ‘Solitude’ where he pointed out many of history's creatives were by nature or circumstance, often solitary. He mentions brilliant scholars and artists - from Beethoven and Kant to Henry James to Wittgenstein. Bob Dylan and The Band decamped to Woodstock, getting back to the garden to reinvent rock with serious songcraft and organic musicianship. Virginia Woolf famously believed that a room of one's own, a space for solitude, was essential for creativity.

Escaping the madness is one definition of luxury. Another way of looking at it is wanting the time and space to enjoy luxury simply secluded.

Honestly you’re better off alone if you want to caress and smell the Bridge of Weir® finest leather hide of your Aston Martin seat, savouring rawhide ‘sourced from the finest Scottish beef herds, processed with the softest and purest of Scottish water’. Incidentally, as this column appreciates the finer details, only the finest heritage breeds are used like Charolais, Limousin, or Galloway and Aberdeen Angus. If that doesn’t bring on the quiet smile of satisfaction that you belong to a super-class light years beyond the hoi-polloi, I don’t know what will.

The most glamorous film star of her day, Greta Garbo, famously said ‘I want to be alone’ in Grand Hotel (1932) and, though it was 92 years ago, she was on to something.

A little more on Anew - a London-based luxury branding Agency

Anew’s two founders deliver: insights from market research, strategic brand thinking, new brand names, luxury logo design, messaging, online and offline content, coffee table books and luxury brand websites. We help companies increase brand profitability through sharper insights, distinctive propositions, creative ideas and faultless execution.

To get in touch do drop us an email. We'd be delighted to meet for a coffee, either face-to-face or virtually to discuss your brief.

Why does nature inspire so much creativity for luxury brands?

In todays’ eco conscious world, designers are tapping nature’s imagery more than ever. In our latest article for Luxury Briefing Magazine we explore why the energy, power and excitement - violence even - of the natural world continues to be designers’ go-to Muse in the luxury brand playbook. Full text below.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ and Graff’s butterflies, Cartier’s Panther, Boodles’ Raindance, Faberge’s eggs, Jaguar’s cars, Mulberry’s tree, Dolce & Gabbana’s leopard prints, Lacoste’s crocodile, Hermès’ horse, Chaumet’s flowers, Lamborghini’s bull, Ralph Lauren’s polo horse. Le Coq Sportif’s rooster, Porsche’s stallion, LVMH’s Cloudy Bay, innumerable fashion collections … the list is endless.

Nature, as a source of creative inspiration, sounds old news, a cliché, but it isn’t. Why is it so enduringly, if not profoundly, part of luxury brand DNA and why is it so important this continues?

To feel the real energy, power and excitement - violence even - of the natural world takes a certain design sensibility, a kind of grace, an understanding. So, here’s to the luxury brand designer, and the creative director and their constant, vital, Muse: plant life, jungle life, flowers of life, trees of life, aqua life, animal life… superior aesthetics, beauty in its purest form. Breathtakingly intricate designs that span majesty and delicacy in the eternal cycle from bud to bloom, youth to old age, opening to closing.

What source material! What sources of energy and struggle!

Frank Lloyd Wright said, “Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature. It will never fail you.” Surely advice today, that’s as good as it's ever been for any budding luxury brand designer.

When luxury designers focus on the sights and symmetries of nature, they can show the life-giving qualities of the world at its best. That is brand depth.

I admire Jacqueline Karachi, Cartier’s creative director; she once told the FT how her respect for nature underlined her work: she talked about her search for natural proportion, detail and timelessness. Designs always began with natural stone which must be approached with humility, because the stone is perfect. She wanted to be at the level of the stone, to enhance it, to be of service to it and to find its right harmony.

Van Gogh, famously, also got the power.

‘Blazing light, red earth, blue sea, mauve twilight, the flake of gold buried in the black depths of the cypress, archaic tastes of wine and olive, ancient smells of dust, goat dung and thyme, immemorial sounds of cicadas and flute. A current of energy where the moon comes out of eclipse, the stars fire the sky, the ocean heaves, and the cypresses move. A richness of surface as though the life of the landscape is bursting.'

(Source: R. Hughes. Shock of the New).

Now I see an even greater need for luxury designers to turn to nature for inspiration as technology reshapes the world. Luxury needs the deeper perspectives of nature and more awareness of the environment’s fragility. As we all know, it’s under threat. With eco – consciousness at the heart of every brand’s purpose, the use of nature in its offer and design will be more about necessity than aesthetics. Since Nature is at the centre of the ecological/cultural/political conversation there is a greater need for design and imagery to celebrate it.

Maybe the fact that we talk about nature so much is revealing. It shows how far we have removed ourselves from it. Maybe tech has done terrible damage by unbalancing the relationship between Man and Nature.

Maybe the fact our world is now in so many ways unattractive, we crave more reminders of the natural world.

Natural being the operative word: one of the other reasons Nature is such an inspiration is the sheer emotional range and creative flexibility that comes from it. It can be so much. From quiet tenacity to primitive vibrancy.

From sadness to joy. Chaos to order. Slow to fast. Simple to complex. Dark to light. Change, always change.

I think of Turner’s or Constable’s clouds. Paintings of nature's most fleeting element, these are attempts to capture transitory energy, light, atmosphere, and movement; nothing is ever fixed, or in one place. As in life…

Nature has also one huge practical asset: an enduring design principle at its core, where proportion meets perfection: The Golden Ratio. A mathematical model when used in design creates a balanced, harmonious, aesthetically pleasing image.

It comes from the Fibonacci sequence, a naturally occurring number sequence found everywhere from the number of leaves on a tree to the shape of a seashell.

The Golden Ratio was used for the Pyramids, the Parthenon, Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling, Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa and many more.

Nature is such an obvious inspiration to draw upon you’d think there was nothing new to say about it.

Easy to stick a flower on a dress, a tree on a wine label. Harder to really make it meaningful. Nature’s imagery has been so debased over time with sunset n’ dawn cheesy chocolate box dreck. The real past masters kept the faith though.

A few weeks before his death Cezanne said he was becoming more clear-sighted before nature; although he did not have the long-lasting colouring he still wanted, the idea that Nature itself was endless suggested that it was paradise, and that comforted him.

Well, I know animal logos sure ain’t paradise. But, amidst the ugly visual chaos and confusion of everyday life, where nature is rapidly receding, any nature-inspired design thinking that joyfully reminds us of the human world is surely welcome.

A little more on Anew - a London-based luxury branding Agency

Anew’s two founders deliver: insights from market research, strategic brand thinking, new brand names, luxury logo design, messaging, online and offline content, coffee table books and luxury brand websites. We help companies increase brand profitability through sharper insights, distinctive propositions, creative ideas and faultless execution.

To get in touch do drop us an email. We'd be delighted to meet for a coffee, either face-to-face or virtually to discuss your brief.

Luxury is good

Life is tough. Celebrate the little pleasures that it sometimes brings to us. In an ugly, discordant world, a little luxury in life is good if you can afford it.

Our latest piece explores why beauty, elegance, timeless high quality, durability and a little self-indulgence can be good for you. It's the ninth in our series of ‘Brand Matters’ for Luxury Briefing: the renowned international magazine for the luxury industry.

You can read the full text below.

What’s so funny about beauty, style, elegance, timeless high quality, durability and a little materialist self-indulgence?

In an ugly, discordant, world a little luxe in life is good if you can afford it. Life is tough. Celebrate the little pleasures that it sometimes brings to us. Yes, it has its excesses, its critics, its disapproving moralists, finger-waggers and righteous do-gooders - and that is how some people think of it.

You know the headlines: rocks-off jewellery, super-size me homes, tank cars for the fleet, customised private jets with interiors in the wife’s favourite colour, a little island somewhere off the beaten (tax) track, a Monet tucked away for the investment never to be seen, the extremes to which personal power and whim can be indulged, the enlarged appetites for every pleasure mankind can devise. I know. We can go on.

But there is a strong case for good. We can sleep easy.

I recently came across David Hume's essay "Of Refinement in the Arts". He was a famous Scottish Enlightenment philosopher and historian in the 1700’s. Old school indeed. He thought about luxury.

In the essay he considers its role and impact on society. Like the Monkees, he’s a Believer. But only in moderation. Too much and it leads to "vicious luxury"(i.e. societal decay). Hume sees luxury as a driving force behind cultural progress and the development of the arts. So, he’s our man. He’d be an LB subscriber.

Executive summary in four quick SEO, dopamine friendly, SM points: (Incidentally, if Hume was alive today, he’d be an avid SM user. He’d probably be doing TED talks, the literary festivals, a guest DJ gig once in a while for Insta, a podcast teamed with his opposite number, say a cobbler, and a side hustle as a Guardian art critic.)

He says luxury plays a crucial role in cultivating refined taste in people. You get an appreciation for aesthetics. He says luxury contributes to the progress of society by promoting a more sophisticated, civilised way of life. As people become more refined in their tastes and manners, society experiences cultural and moral improvement. He says luxury stimulates industry and that the desire for it keeps people busy leading to economic prosperity. He says as people buy more aesthetically pleasing, products, artists and innovators want to create works to meet those demands.

I love his idealism: he thinks if you have skilful luxury artisans and craftsmen like weavers or ship carpenters (the star designers of his day) you also should get great philosophers and politicians. Excellence in one area should result in excellence in other areas - like politics. We wish.

I think we agree that any perfection we show in creating luxury brands in our own Age of Anxiety certainly doesn’t extend to government.

We don’t party like it’s 1799.

Admiration for the perfect good is of course a luxury brand mantra. Obsession with Excellence or Saving Civilisation – it may be a debate that never goes away, but I applaud the ones that do Good:

The Hermès Birkin Bag: hand-stitched leather that takes days to complete by a single artisan.

Patek Philippe's techniques pushing the boundaries of mechanical engineering. Not just telling time, owning a miniature work of art.

Lamborghini’s attention to detail and precision engineering, incorporating cutting-edge technology.

Chanel and Dior’s meticulous craftsmanship, hand-stitching, embroidering, and embellishing garments to perfection.

Akoya pearls: divers in Japan free dive for the finest specimens, braving strong currents and limited visibility.

Japanese Gyokuro: the most luxurious type of green tea whose plants are shaded before harvest.

Kobe Beef: Wagyu cattle are massaged daily to improve blood flow and marbling in the meat.

Peninsula Hotels: luxurious properties in some of the most remarkable destinations in the world, inimitable service, delivered by dedicated team members with a passion for their calling and an intimate knowledge of their cities.

Bombardier jets: engineering excellence, delivering unrivalled comfort, performance, technology and the smoothest ride. Venetian Murano glassware: hand-made blown using special methods, techniques, and tools from silica, soda, lime and potassium melted together in a special furnace. Invented in Venice over 1,000 years ago.

Truffle Hunting: Highly trained pigs or dogs sniff out these rare and valuable fungi. Saffron: The world's most expensive spice comes from the delicate crocus flower. Harvesting is done by hand, requiring immense patience. Sunseeker superyachts: luxurious interiors, onboard amenities and the exclusivity of floating palaces.

Finally, Lexus point out, with a psychologist’s help, in their inhouse magazine, what luxury does to us:

‘When you experience something luxurious, your brain responds by releasing ‘feel-good’ neurotransmitters, like endorphins and dopamine, which give you that strong buzz of enjoyment as well as the increase in self-esteem associated with belonging to an exclusive group.

With your senses heightened, you may also become more aware of your surroundings, noticing small details such as the smoothness of a steering wheel, or perfume. This physiological reaction can be intense, but as the experience continues, this strong initial reaction evolves into something more soothing. Once we are settled into enjoying the experience, we will have physiological changes associated with relaxation and contentment’.

So, good all round then.

A little more on Anew - a London-based luxury branding Agency

Anew’s two founders deliver: insights from market research, strategic brand thinking, new brand names, luxury logo design, messaging, online and offline content, coffee table books and luxury brand websites. We help companies increase brand profitability through sharper insights, distinctive propositions, creative ideas and faultless execution.

To get in touch do drop us an email. We'd be delighted to meet for a coffee, either face-to-face or virtually to discuss your brief.

The ‘Consumer’? That means you and me

(Feature image with thanks to Alexandra Maria)

"The customer is not a moron. She's your wife" is the famous quote adman David Ogilvy said in 1955. The wording looks clumsy today, but the sentiment is right.

Call them - us - consumers, shoppers, customers, stakeholders or an audience... we’re People. Individuals. Complex. Different. Real not just a number on a graph, an algorithm.

We went to a market research event last week created again by the wonderful ‘Watch Me Think’ team. It was entitled ‘You Are Not Your Consumer.’ And it’s always good to be reminded how much language matters and how corrosive industry jargon can be.

The subject is one critical to the insights/market research industry. Speakers explored how to understand people who are not actually like the privileged people in marketing. Their lives, aspirations and ambitions may be different. And how you sell the importance of this to senior leadership.

It’s been exactly a year since we attended the last event and again the old Conway Hall stage in Holborn was packed, timely and stimulating.

A veritable cast of writers, academics, researchers, campaign creators, psychologists and economists again offered provocative thinking. Some really brief snapshots, and one-liners:

Speaking truth

Rory Sutherland entertainingly and cleverly told how we need to understand ourselves first. He also said that marketing was one of the few professions where there is no ‘right’ or ‘perfect’ answer or solution. As long as it was near enough to the brief and reflected data the best it could.

Though the amazing Daryl Fielding, who oversaw the creation of the Dove Campaign for Real Beauty, knows she got something right there. She also described the canny way she piloted such a radical idea through the entrenched culture of a corporate client.

Helen Edwards explained how growth can be found in life’s margins, created by outsiders. She took us through the history of Nike, and veganism. She also pointed that insect food’s time will come.

Avi Kluger told us what we can gain through listening properly. And how exhausting it is to do properly. Something all psychotherapists understand.

Justine Roberts CBE explained mums are people too. Sounds obvious but it isn’t. For more than 20 years, Mumsnet has been busting the myth that assumes mums are only interested in nappies and school catchment areas.

Bobby Duffy’s Generation Myth is based on an analysis of 3m+ people globally to understand the real differences, and similarities, between generations. He showed models for understanding the type of change we’re seeing, and what this means for future trends. It was good to hear that it’s not all the baby boomers’ fault.

Andrew Tenzer explained how the culture of marketing limits the potential of the industry, and why empathy isn't the route to audience understanding.

Steven Lacey also queried empathy believing in his work out on the field, much of it at the sharp end of society, has become not only a hindrance but a poisoned chalice leading to poorer insights.

Lori Meakin believes that gender equality is proven to benefit all of us, but the degree of misinformation, fear and frustration around is impeding progress: so though 'the future is female’, it is also ‘men who are now being discriminated against.’

Journalist Helen Lewis made a guest appearance. The interviewer opened with the observation that her CV was all we needed to know. So, Atlantic writer, host of BBC R 4’s The Spark/The New Gurus, her Bluestocking newsletter is on Substack. She is a frequent panellist on ‘Have I Got News For You’, regular guest on the Private Eye podcast. Ex-deputy ed New Statesman, and her first book was a Sunday Times bestseller and Guardian, Times, Telegraph and FT book of the year. She was indeed wise and witty.

Two things stood out for me in relation to what we do in luxury brand marketing: how more honesty needed to be brought back between brands and people. Purpose marketing might good for a few brands but not for all. The exchange should be as it was before - a transaction. Most brands are not friends or movements. They meet needs. It’s a commercial relationship. Also, the nature of journalism. They are also trying to understand people, as we are. The good ones - like novelists, poets, and artists – should be listened to.

All in all, an esteemed panel of experts and of course the brilliant Alistair Vince.

The luxury consumer, shopper, customer, target audience

However they are described, we know them well.

(In truth it does help that we know a little about arts'n’culture as that’s the luxury brand world. Please don’t hold it against us.)

As London-based luxury branding Agency, Anew’s two founders understand the worlds of HNW’s/UHNW’s. We deliver insights from market research, strategic brand thinking, new brand names, luxury logo design, messaging, online and offline content, coffee table books and luxury brand websites. We have helped companies such as Bombardier, Universal Music, Hatch Mansfield and Peninsula Hotels.

To get in touch do drop us an email. We'd be delighted to meet for a coffee, either face-to-face or virtually to discuss your brief.

What makes a wine fine?

‘Land is really the best art’ thought artist Andy Warhol. If your taste – and bank account - runs to luxury wine, you would surely agree. For a humble agricultural product, grapes have sure done well. Turned into wine, they stimulate, embolden and inspire. Luxury wine has the luxury brand playbook totally covered. It presents a masterclass from which we can all learn. Mythology, mesmerising origination stories embracing nature, identity, sustainability, passion, style, art, history, culture. It is investment vehicle, innovator, elixir of the gods, religion, HNW hobby, cultural signifier… it is a luxury sector par excellence, with luxury brand narratives that are deliciously perfect. Bottled poetry borne of the land blended with deep soul. Oh, and the product tastes pretty good too.

I’m interested in what makes wine fine. How rarity, production methods, terroir, and history contribute to luxury status, and what the emotional, psychological and social drivers are for ownership and drinking.

Firstly, a fine wine means the holy word: Terroir. Let Hugh Johnson explain: “Terroir, of course, means much more than what goes on beneath the surface. Properly understood, it means the whole ecology of a vineyard: every aspect of its surroundings from bedrock to late frosts and autumn mists, not excluding the way a vineyard is tended, nor even the soul of the vigneron.” It’s a thing. Wine lovers get it.

Fine wine also means limited production, exclusive vineyards, or rare grape varietals, or vineyards grown in unique conditions e.g. soil composition or climate. Add quality, exceptional craftsmanship, meticulous attention to detail, and sticking to traditional methods, like ageing in oak barrels, and you have a recipe that delivers distinctive tastes, complexity, and character. All of which significantly increase a wine's value.
Ageing is a good look. Getting older has its benefits, though I haven’t seen them yet. Well-aged wines, particularly from famous vintages, gain prestige and higher prices due to their limited availability. Fine wines also mean prizes, from competitions and critics which justifies premium positionings.

Scarcity is another good look and a reliable pillar of luxury brands. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti wines are some of the most expensive in the world because of their combination of very high quality, reputation, exclusivity, cult status and consequently supply and demand. The domain's flagship is the Romanée-Conti Grand Cru which cots thousands of euros per bottle. Production is only 5,000 bottles per year. The 1945 Romanée-Conti sold for $558,000 at auction last year.

Heritage. In spades. We all know reputation over time underpins the luxury category. Heritage here applies to regions or maisons that have demonstrated longevity and consistent demand, like classified Bordeaux properties, Burgundy Grand Cru sites, or Champagne.

Wine brand marketing

And then there is luxury brand marketing. The building blocks are long histories, impressive reputations, and either family farmer generational craft-based, or passionate- new- owner stories, associated with the winery or region. Though outsider/disruptor founder stories have their place, as seen in the rosé sector which is full of celeb owners. Also, Asian ownership. An estimated 160 chateaux are now under Chinese ownership, up from 30 in 2012. The vast majority of acquisitions have been in Bordeaux.

You know how the marketing works in practise: impactful label designs, evocative fragrant copy, luxurious packaging, and unique bottles elevate physical experience and create exclusivity. They are hard to do well, do sincerely and with respect especially to the winemakers, the creators. Here are some example luxury branding case histories of our own.

In his book "The Art of Looking", art critic Robert Hughes discusses the role of sensory experience and critical judgment in both art - and food - appreciation. He connected the two believing complexity, origination, historical context and cultural significance make for the whole experience. So, here’s the whole experience:

Psychologically, fine wine is rich territory indeed. Freud never wrote about wine, but his famous artist grandson Lucian created the label for Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2006. (Whilst on art Warhol also shilled for the same Chateau designing their label for the 1971 vintage).

Brand association with culture, status and success. Thus, perfectly showing how owning and drinking luxury wine goes beyond the physical act of consumption. Owning a limited-edition or highly sought-after wine has its own sweet taste of high self-esteem, brag value, and sense of accomplishment.

Not to say the wine itself isn’t wonderful. The taste experience of a well-crafted, complex wine can be truly joyful. It can be a temporary indulgent escape from the everyday. It might revive memories or cultural traditions. Sharing with people connects and bonds. Never mind breaking bread, open the bottle. That togetherness thing happens quicker. It is a more flavoursome way than Hovis to signal generosity and like-mindedness.

For some – and we see this in many luxury sectors like cars, watches and jewellery – fine wines are a platform for acquiring and displaying expertise, knowledge, and cultural capital. Knowing your wine is a mark of sophistication and discernment. At its worst this means the butt of a hundred stereotypes. At its best, wine is ideal for all Pinot Noir philosophers, intellectual aesthetic adventurers, and curious searchers for new truths in new glasses from new places, varietals, and vintages.

Fine wine is indeed luxury. Part of its appeal has always been its almost primal human desire for connection to nature. We talk much about narratives and stories but, in truth, wines have it effortlessly. Origins in agriculture. Connection with Mother earth and its cycles. Sensory experience. Cultural significance. Let’s end with a poetic perspective on the interconnectedness of man and nature. “Each blade of grass has its spot on earth whence it draws its life, its strength; and so is man rooted to the land from which he draws his faith together with his life.” J.Conrad.

So, Cheers. Salud. Santé. Saúde.

Here's to developing successful drinks brands

You can read more about our drinks experience here and that of our close creative associates Studio Parr, the award-winning design studio specialising in premium drinks.

Our collective experience includes Chivas, Beefeater Hayman, Talisker, Kylie Minogue, Estandon, Esporao, Hatch Mansfield, Neleman, Ehrmanns, Marques De Riscal, Albourne Estate, Hoffmann & Rathbone, Accolade Wines, International Wine Shippers, Grange vineyards, Johnnie Walker, Talisker, Jack Daniels, Stolichnya. Adnams, Siren, Tuborg, Tiger, Carlsberg/Heineken, Diageo/Guinness.

To get in touch do drop us an email. We'd be delighted to meet for a coffee, either face-to-face or virtually to discuss your brief.

Exploring the symbolism of colour for luxury brands

Colour has always been a storytelling device to denote strength, status, exclusivity and rarity. Luxury brands have used colour’s power to communicate and evoke profound emotional responses.

We explore this topic more in 'True Colours': the ninth of our series of ‘Brand Matters’ articles for Luxury Briefing: the renowned international magazine for the luxury industry.

You can read the full text below.

Chanel black & white; Tiffany turquoise; Burberry beige; Dior pink & grey; Veuve Clicquot yellow; Cartier and Louboutin red; Hermès orange; Lacoste and Harrods green; Boodles pink & black, Apple white - these are the colours of brand exceptionalism.

The great luxury business founders (and indeed religious leaders, retailers, rulers and Royals) were handy with a palette. That's because colour has always been a consequential communication tool used as a storytelling device to denote strength, status, exclusivity and rarity.

The depth of meaning in colour has intrigued image makers. A popular book in Mad Men days was The Lüscher Colour Test. Invented by psychologist Max Lüscher, it was for psychiatrists, psychologists, and those who work with the conscious and unconscious characteristics and motivations of others. Its principle is that accurate psychological information can be gained about someone through their choices and rejections of colours. One for planners everywhere.

But really, it is history that has taught us some timeless truths: black symbolises power, elegance, mystery. Purple means royalty and speaks of extravagance and exclusivity. (In ancient times the dye used to produce the emperor’s purple clothes came from snails, was extremely expensive to produce, and therefore rarely seen on anyone other than royalty.) Royal blue channels regal insignia, instilling confidence, trust and authority. Red was the colour of nobility during the Renaissance. Minimalism, greige and neutrals do understated refinement, sophisticated, quiet luxe lifestyles with a clean canvas for craftsmanship and detail. And gold obviously says wealth.

The smart brands above have nailed their colours to their masts for decades, making them iconic, by consistently featuring them on all their products, but most of all in their comms. Like yellow? Go to a Veuve Clicquot experiential event. It is a serious business.

Take pink. Not any old pink. Art deco high-rise, soft, electric Miami sunsets pink. Pantone 1895C to be precise. That will be soccer star Lionel Messi’s Pink Jersey for Inter Miami. The NYT says it is “the hottest piece of sports merchandise on the planet.” It’s so coveted that even Beckham has found it hard to get hold of one.

Having worked with CORDURA fabrics, I appreciate how closely the development of colour is linked to the world’s advances in areas such as biology, chemistry, mathematics, textiles, anthropology, fine arts, and colour theory in optics and art. Many stories to tell as a result.

Famously, blue’s a big winner in the meaningful narrative stakes. The only colour to have an entire state of being and art genre named after it. The blues. Allegedly derived from a 19th century phrase ‘blue devils’ which described the hallucinations one gets doing cold turkey from alcohol. It is the best shorthand there is for melancholy and depression. ‘Trouble in mind, I’m blue, I have almost lost my mind, never had so much, trouble in my life before.’ As Muddy Waters put it.

Away from the blues, chocolate brown is having a luxury moment. Vogue says it has an understated elegance to it that can offer more depth than black. It brings warmth, earthiness, and a timeless calm that feels grounding and comforting. Indeed.

For Christian Dior, pink was the colour of the heart and Dior’s personal happy memories of the blush-pink shade of his childhood home in Granville. Grey the colour of elegance and refinement.

For Tiffany & Co, its robin’s egg blue colour ‘which is more than a brand icon but a sacred cow’ made customers irate when new owners LVMH introduced Tiffany Yellow. It was for a pop-up at its Beverly Hills store. A colour-expert saw deep meaning in the choice of the bright, bold canary yellow colour. “If you look at the colour wheel, this yellow is almost exactly opposite blue. It has maximum visibility, whether in print or online, and maximum shock value. If you want to signal you are doing something different, you might as well do the exact opposite.” Forbes reported in 2021.

For Chanel, black was the colour of mourning, work and servants’ clothes before she launched her black sheath dress on the market and turned it into the colour of “smart” elegance, ideal for any occasion. It was also the colour of the nuns’ clothing at the local convent where she was sent as a girl to study with the sisters, who taught her how to sew. For Chanel, black was essential, sharp and the ideal complement for highlighting her other core colour white.

Lastly, green. Pundits say, maybe unsurprisingly, it is the true colour of modern luxury. In 2017, the Pantone Color Institute named Greenery the Colour of the Year. It was chosen because it embodies the concept of 'environment, beginnings, healthy food resolutions, grass and the outdoors'. The colour was immediately adopted on several designer runways, including Prada, Gucci, Kenzo and Balenciaga.

The artist Mark Rothko believed colour to be an instrument that served a higher purpose than mere difference. For him, colour had the power to communicate and evoke profound emotional responses. He felt that it was a short cut into the soul, superseding language and thought to access the core of human emotion.

Can’t get better than that.

In Paris, you can visit the first retrospective in France dedicated to Mark Rothko’s work at the Fondation Louis Vuitton, to understand what he meant.

A little more on Anew - a London-based luxury branding Agency

Anew’s two founders deliver: insights from market research, strategic brand thinking, new brand names, luxury logo design, messaging, online and offline content, coffee table books and luxury brand websites. We help companies increase brand profitability through sharper insights, distinctive propositions, creative ideas and faultless execution.

To get in touch do drop us an email. We'd be delighted to meet for a coffee, either face-to-face or virtually to discuss your brief.

The enduring quest for meaning in the luxury industry

Meaning. Working with luxury brands, it’s something we think much about. But ‘meaning’ itself is under attack. We explore what that’s about, and why real meaning goes beyond clever marketing.

It's the eighth in our series of ‘Brand Matters’ for Luxury Briefing: the renowned international magazine for the luxury industry.

You can read the full text below.

In psychiatrist Viktor Frankl's famed ‘Man's Search for Meaning’ he writes that we cannot avoid suffering but we can choose how to cope with it, find meaning in it, and move forward with renewed purpose. His believes our primary drive in life is not pleasure, as Freud said, but the discovery and pursuit of what we personally find meaningful.

Meaningfulness. Being involved with luxury brands; it’s something we think much about. Because an innate ‘meaningfulness’ adds meaning beyond the clever sophistry of marketing. At least some luxury brand companies have faith that ‘meaning’ is actually worthwhile. Sadly, ‘meaning’ is under attack.

Andrew Marr writes that ‘AI, conspiracy theories and a paranoid appetite for fake news offer the illusion of power – and of meaning. He says we are living through a period in world history in which Western populations have lost their heft and security. People are scared.’ Certainly, we are seeing increasing cynicism in our public institutions.

According to the FT (Nov.23) Luxury brands are ‘slow to improve transparency’: ’Several industry names shun sustainability survey despite boards placing higher value on responsible practices ‘

What does this mean? It means simply truth, heritage and depth should be more important. The legacy part – usually European poor craftspeople, monks or widowed wine estate holders – may be seen as either a brand burden relegated to the About Us tab at the bottom of the site. Or a brand asset depending on the reader’s/ viewer’s point of view. Communicated correctly without being grandiose, it remains one vital sign that your brand can be trusted.

We used to have proper editors (yes, mainly in the mainstream media) who did boring things like fact check, and credit proper sources. They did not throw out fake red meat to whatever tribe was required to keep their particular media ship afloat.

So, if commentators are saying we will see a new sort of politician – more forthright and assertive – to point out exaggeration and untruth, it may put a different tonal emphasis on how brands behave.

There are some ahead of game. I like the recent Patek ‘Story’ campaign. They balance humanity and humility just about right, in an unshowy way. Eg ‘A 100 year responsibility. A story about commitment’ and ‘Only human’ a story about skill. And one small close-up visual centre page., and the President’s signature. Deliberately classic.

I like Brunello Cucinelli’s site which opens on a Kant quote: ‘Beauty is the symbol of the morally good’. It gets better. Cucinelli’s speech to the G20 summit is quoted in full headlined: ‘Humanistic Capitalism and Human Sustainability’….

‘…my early years spent in the countryside, my life in a farming family, left the seed and then the sprout of Humanistic Capitalism and Human Sustainability in my soul. Ours, my family's, was a life in contact with nature, because nature gave us everything. Indeed, we did not even have electricity, and we worked the land with animals, and collected rainwater. There was mutual respect between us and nature, and everything was done in harmony with Creation.

I dreamed of a business to make profits ethically, with dignity, without causing suffering to people and offence to Creation, or at least as little as possible. I liked to envisage more pleasant workplaces, where one could enjoy the view outside, and I wanted people to earn a little more, because we are all thinking souls, and because we can no longer turn our backs on poverty.’

Sincere meaning – and indeed happiness to shareholders - is an alpaca and cotton cardigan costing £1850. That’s luxury branding, that is.

Easy to mock, but I come to praise not bury. Meaning is not just important politically, it’s also cultural and psychological. Of course, marketers have to understand how to influence human behaviour, and connect with them based on who their customers really are. Hence planning, data analysis, quant ‘n qual….a veritable industry trying to gain truth, insight and in this increasingly fractured world, meaning.

Everyone talks about change. But in a counter-intuitive way, luxury brand marketers must be concerned with what is unchanging – there are still universal meanings, motivations and compulsions that drive the luxury consumer.

Humanity hasn’t changed such a lot there. Some constants remain. If the history of luxury teaches us anything, it is its ability to adapt. The rich will still like a good deal. People will still want to party. That bigger house on the hill is still aspirational. The need for applause never goes away…

Status, display/’brag’ value, pride, belonging, identity, vanity, being of value, of being loved, of self-love. Social media has encouraged these behavioural aspects. Luxury taps into the innate desire we all have to believe in something real. It’s a responsibility to people.

As Father John Misty puts in Pure Comedy: ‘I hate to say it, but each other's all we got’

A little more on Anew - a London-based luxury branding Agency

Anew’s two founders deliver: insights from market research, strategic brand thinking, new brand names, luxury logo design, messaging, online and offline content, coffee table books and luxury brand websites. We help companies increase brand profitability through sharper insights, distinctive propositions, creative ideas and faultless execution.

To get in touch do drop us an email. We'd be delighted to meet for a coffee, either face-to-face or virtually to discuss your brief.

Everything you wanted to know about trademarks but were afraid to ask

Sounds dull but it isn’t. It is a hugely important part of the brand naming process.

We are not lawyers, we are creative naming consultants, and no matter how fun or creative the name generation process might be, names must be properly protected.

Luxury brand name creation takes creative skill

To distil a brand narrative, its elements and all the associated emotions and rationality into a single word or phrase is no small feat. As a luxury branding agency, we know that a brand name is a hugely important part of a brand strategy. It is a word that starts a relationship with a consumer. At its best, a natural, authentic extension of a brand, demonstrating values, positioning and emotional connection. The subject also has a long and fine relationship with the legal profession

A noble history

(Image credit: Abe Books)

The first piece of trademark legislation was allegedly passed in England in 1266 by King Henry III. It was a set of rules known as “the Assize of Bread and Ale”, which regulated the size, weight and the price of bread as well as the purity of flour to protect consumers. Bakers had to use a distinctive sign to mark their bread, in order for regulators to identify the origins of a loaf. And logo designers, and brand consultants didn’t even exist...

Another early example of trademark registration was in the Italian Renaissance. “Marks and the Medici: Branding and Trademarks in Renaissance Global Business” and the “Fourteenth-century register of the marks of metal smiths” are pioneering.

(Image credit: Cordis Europe)

Stella Artois can be traced to 1708 when Sebastian Artois bought a brewery and renamed it after himself. (Stella means “star” in Latin),

Twinings Tea was founded by Thomas Twining in 1706.

In 1891, Marcus Samuel began shipping kerosene from London to India, bringing back seashells for sale in Europe. Initially, the seashell business was so popular that it was most of the company’s profits. Samuel incorporated the name “Shell” in 1897.

And Levi Strauss & Co. Company goes back to 1837.

Founded by William Bass in 1777, Bass Ale became the first registered trademark ever issued by the British government.

Trademarking is important for many reasons:

- It prevents others from using your name, logo, slogan, or other identifiers. This helps you maintain control over your brand image and reputation.
- It reduces consumer confusion; trademarks help consumers easily identify the source of products and services, preventing them from being misled by imitators.
- It builds brand trust and loyalty: Customers are more likely to trust and be loyal to brands they recognize and associate with positive experiences.
- There are legal and financial benefits: it gives you the legal right to take action against infringement. If someone uses your trademark without permission, you can sue them for damages.
- It increases the value of your business: A strong trademark portfolio can be a valuable asset, making your business more attractive to investors and buyers.
- It can help you secure funding: Some lenders and investors may be more likely to provide financial support to businesses with registered trademarks.
- It helps establish a strong online presence. A trademark can help protect domain names and social media handles. And indeed an internet domain name itself can be trademarked

Without registration, one must rely upon common laws of passing off, for any kind of protection against infringement. These are more difficult, more expensive and time-consuming, and offer much less protection for a brand owner.

Here are some of the first questions we get asked, particularly by entrepreneurs, smaller luxury brands starting up or for companies wanting to introduce new brands into their portfolio:

What can you trademark?

Any sign which can be represented graphically is potentially registerable as a trademark. These include:

Words
Slogans
Designs
Letters
Numerals
Internet domain names
The shape of goods or their packaging
Smells (for example, Sumitomo Rubber Industries’ registration of a floral fragrance reminiscent of roses as applied to tyres).
Sounds (for example, the Intel four-note musical jingle).
Colours (for example, Heinz’s registration of the colour turquoise for use on tins of baked beans).
Gestures (for example, Asda has registered a double-tap on a jeans or skirt back pocket as a trademark).
Moving digital images (for example, the Intel “leap ahead” animated logo)

It’s worth noting also that words and symbols have to be applied for separately as distinct applications, and if a company applies for a combined word and symbol mark, they always have to be used together.

What classes you consider applying for?

There are around 45 classes – each with many sub sections. and it order to put forward an application a company has to demonstrate real intention to trade in that class. Simply put, a trademark is a Mark of Trade – an intention to trade goods or services in that class.

How long does it take for a UK registration?

The full registration is undertaken through the UK's Intellectual Property Office (The IPO). Once desk research has been completed by us and often a lawyer, and assuming there are no objections raised in the official process, it usually takes around 4 – 5 months.

How does it differ in Europe and globally

A similar process – undertaken through the EU IPO - means that a community trademark can be applied for; this covers all companies in the EU. It follows similar rules and guidance to that of the UK IPO.

Going worldwide is much more complex – with individual applications being made for each country a company wants to trade in.

When can a brand use ™ and when can it use ®?

Trademarks do not need to be registered at all, but, if they are, then the owner can benefit from a number of protections – as noted above.

If a trademark is not registered, but it is still considered a trademark unique to the owner, then this can be signified by using the ™ mark. Also, if a company is going through the trademarking process the ™ symbol can be used.

The ® means a trademark (the word, phrase, logo, or an adjacent symbol) has been registered in the UK with the IPO - specifically for the product or service it represents.

It can also only be used next to a trademark in the country it is registered in.

So if a mark is register in the UK and a business uses it, say in the EU, it would not be able to use the ® symbol until it had registered your trade mark in that region.

What’s the difference between ™ and ℠?

Trade mark refers to goods and services, and Service mark - more often used in the USA - refers only to services. It is used on the advertising of the service rather than on the packaging or delivery of the service, since there is generally no 'package' to place the mark on, which is the practice for trademarks. It is also not registered, just like the ™

A trademark is, as noted earlier – a mark of trade. Copyright refers to the right to copy and shows the world that the author of the work is claiming a right to that piece of work. Copyright mainly relates to artistic works.

Copyright in essence protects the creator against copy reproduction, reuse, performance, play etc by others.

Copyright arises automatically when a piece of work is created such as a drawing, story, picture or song and does not have to be filed in order to be used.

What should I do next?

See a trademark lawyer or intellectual property specialist to ensure you are properly protecting your brand. We can recommend some – including our friends at SGM Law with whom we work closely - if you are working with us on a project.

See us – a strategic brand naming agency - London based, who develop unique business names for luxury brands. Our brand naming portfolio is here. A previous blog on luxury brand name generation is here

We'd be delighted to meet for a coffee, either face-to-face or virtually, to discuss any new projects you might be considering.

Please get in touch here

Please note that the above is for general guidance only. It does not constitute formal legal advice and should not be construed as such.

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